Here we go…
We left Darwin after doing my first (without Tig) hook-up of the van. Thankfully everything appeared in order and I pulled the big beast out of the caravan park and onto the main road out of town. Dad, my trusty navigator, van hook-up partner and photographer captured the moment for perpetuity; or maybe to show hubby that I had been listening when he was giving me instructions. Somehow I quickly went from pupil to teacher and was teaching dad what needed to be done and in which order. Dad thankfully was a very obliging pupil and wanted to try his hand at everything to do with the caravan (even helping with toilet emptying… by holding the water hose). He did offer to drive a couple of times but I was happy to keep that role to myself so I could at least say I did it. It’s late… you can tell as I am dribbling on a bit. Anyway, we headed out of Darwin and turned onto the Arnhem Highway. I was secretly hoping we would pass our friends the Chapmans on their way out of Kakadu. I had no idea of their travel plans since leaving them at Bitter Springs other than that they would be at Katherine getting the car fixed and then Kakadu and then Darwin… no timeframes, just places. Just as I was driving along thinking I should have emailed them as per my husband’s suggestion, I notice this very familiar Landcruiser with red jerry can on the roof and caravan on the back coming towards me. Quick check in the side mirror once they passed for the bikes on the back and sure enough it was them. After a brief conversation on the 2-way before we got out of radio signal range, we continued on our merry way with a very unhappy Maddi in the back who couldn’t understand why we weren’t going to stop somewhere with the Chapmans for lunch. Thankfully after a quick explanation that they were heading in the opposite direction to us and the promise of the possibility of seeing them again somewhere, sometime in the future she settled down. Surprisingly enough we did see them again, same situation just north of Pine Creek exactly one week later. To the Chapmans – Dane, keep telling dad to slow down, we will catch up with you eventually.
Our first stop was the Bark Hut which is about half way between Darwin and Jabiru (sort of the main town in Kakadu and our destination). Dad and Sue wondered off with the kids and found all sort of animals near the beer garden where about 20 friendly bikies were enjoying an ale.
On arrival at Jabiru we found our appropriate accommodations at the Lake View Tourist Park. Kids and I in a powered ensuite site and Dad and Sue 150m down the road in their permanent tent. Very classy, but you had to watch your head, the door was a little low. The kids quickly noticed that Grandad and Sue had a bunk bed in their little room as well as a double and at least the girls wanted a sleep over. This however did not happen. The kids would often wander between the two sites with a two-way to communicate with me or Grandad and I had to hold them off in the morning to ensure Sue had a chance to wake up before they arrived.
We spent our 3 full days in Kakadu checking out the different areas of this large National Park. The first day we visited the Bowali Visitor Information Centre. We wandered through the displays and read all the signs, teaching the kids as much as possible so they got the most out of it. I learnt some interesting facts too, like did you know that all Barramundi are born as males and when they are about 7 years old they change into females? Interesting? We also paid our $25 a head, 14 Day Park User Fee for the adults and got some local information on what to do and see. We decided to travel south to Cooinda for our picnic lunch and while we were there got full use of their facilities. The kids and I even used the pool while Grandad and Sue had a quiet ice cream out of kid view. Yes, I did see you too.
On our second day we headed to the northern part of the park and did the little Bardedjilidji Sandstone walk. It was stinking hot and the kids got pretty grumpy but the change in scenery and rock formations were interesting to see. Thankfully there were numbered self-guide information sheets so the kids had something to keep them distracted while they looked for the next number along the track. After our bush walk we headed to the East Alligator River for a lunch spot and a bit of salt water croc spotting. Wow, there were masses of them and they certainly put on a show. All would be quiet as we watched 2 or 3 of them moving around in the current then SNAP. One would have a go at a fish somewhere across the river. Watching the tourists moving around the waters edge with camera in hand was rather entertaining too, if not a little nerve racking at times. One particular gentlemen didn’t seem to think anything could be lurking in the water and as he neared the water’s edge, he would turn his back.
After lunch we headed to nearby Merl campground for a weaving demonstration by some local Aboriginal ladies from Arnhem Land organised by the National Park. It was very interesting learning how to weave baskets and bracelets from the local pandanus plants. One quiet lady named Audrey sat splitting pandanus leaves width-wise while the other more chatty lady, Hannah, ground roots to make different coloured dyes for the leaves. All materials had been gathered that morning prior to the demonstration. Once the leaves were split (which a number of us tried and couldn’t do) and the roots were ground, they were both boiled up in a billy of water until the leaves had taken up the colour. Once this was done the leaves were cooled under cold water and hung in a tree to dry. We all had a go at making a bracelet to take with us using a simple blanket stitch to hold the filler together. I would love to make one of these types of baskets, but apparently it can take them up to 2 months to make one, so I don’t think this will be happening anytime soon.
After our weaving experience we headed to Ubirr rock to cook up dinner, listen to the ranger presentations on the Aboriginal Art Sites and watch the sunset over the vast plains. Watching the sunset from Ubirr is very popular so we watched it with 200+ of our closest friends. The kids don’t quite understand the lead up to the sunset experience so for them it was just playtime on the rocks. The kids and I did however depart just prior to the sun setting to avoid as many mosquitos as possible that come out like vultures once the sun goes down.
After day two I was just exhausted so I spent the morning of our final full day hanging around camp while Dad and Sue took the kids to Jabiru pool. Dad said it was the best pool ever and particularly liked the massive shade cloth that hangs over it. They did all appear quiet relaxed by the time I picked them up at midday.
After lunch we headed 50 minutes down the road to our Yellow Waters Sunset Cruise. As usual the cruise was fabulous and the kids did well with the limited space to move around and the 2 hour duration. Lyle, our guide was fantastic and had obviously had kids on his boat before. When it came time for him to shut off the engine so we could take in the peace and quiet and ambience of Yellow Waters he came strolling down to the front of the boat with chuppa chupps to keep my crew quiet. It worked a treat until one of them dropped theirs on the floor.
Next morning we packed up the van and set off down the Kakadu Highway, left the park via the southern gate and headed to our next stop at Katherine. That however is another story which you will have to wait a little longer for.
Till next time …
Thea
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