Kings Canyon

After topping up with fuel and visiting Yulara Post Office to send more yummy goodies to Tanzania and a few post cards home, we were on the road back up to Kings Canyon. On arriving at Kings Canyon Resort we checked in, set up, played on the play equipment, ate dinner and raced off to see the sun set from the viewing platform on the edge of the campground. We were late (no surprise) and only saw the last few rays of sunshine on the canyon walls before it was all over. The funny thing is that people were actually walking away before we even got to the viewing area and then as we hadn’t quite got our bearings yet we didn’t quite know which rocky crevise along the spectacular range was Kings Canyon. We decided since we had ventured out to the viewing area we would hang around a little longer and get some reading time with Maddi. There we sat quietly listening to Maddi read us Billy B Brown and we were still by far the noisiest group at the platform.

The next morning we decided to tackle the rim walk around the top of Kings Canyon. After reading the details of the walk at the starting point we decided the kids were up to the challenge and up, up we climbed. The mountain goat girls did a fantastic job climbing the many rock stairs up the ridgeline while Kai found it a bit more challenging. The walk information said to allow 3 to 4 hours to complete the walk and we are pleased to say that even with a 3, 5 and 6 year old in tow we finished it just over 4½ hours. Thea did the side trip to the lookout alone while Tig continued along the track with the kids. The scenery was spectacular the whole way around with masses of domes to snake through during the beginning and then sheer canyon walls to admire further on. Thankfully the walk kept well back from the edge most of the way around with only a few sections where a firm grip of Kai’s hand was required. We had images of the whole walk being along the top of the cliff, particularly from the photos you see. The kids walked extremely well for most of the 6 kms around, but did tire and become a bit cranky near the end but how many 3 year old can say they walked 6kms around a canyon rim. It became more and more obvious that the kids were becoming tired as more little stumbles and grazed knees appeared and they were certainly content to sit in the shelter at the end and enjoy a jelly snake for their great effort.






Back at camp that night four of us enjoyed an informative slide show and presentation on the area from the local Ranger. Poor Kai boy missed out but he was so tired that the sleep was much more important for him. The girls hopefully took some more information away from this experience and hopefully, fingers crossed understood a little bit more about the area. Mum and dad certainly did.

Next we are off to the West MacDonnell Ranges for a couple of days and a little bit slower pace.

Till next time…
Thea & Tig

Uluru & Kata Tjuta

It was a long drive from Rainbow Valley to Yulara with only a few rest stops.

We visited Uluru 9 years ago for our honeymoon and camped at the campground, it was lush green flat grass, quite an oasis in the red centre. On arriving at Ayers Rock Camp ground today we didn’t find any grassed sites as promised on the website over in the caravan area. It was basically a red dusty parking ground with allocated parking spots. The site behind us was raised up and had a 9 month old puppy tied to the pole right on the small retaining wall between the sites. This didn’t bother us until late at night when the pup wasn’t settling for the night and started to play with his little blue bucket. Unfortunately for us he lost his bucket over the wall and into our annexe area. It landed on our green mat and the dog had just enough chain to come down to our level but not enough to reach the bucket. He proceeded to use his paw at the edge of our green mat ripping up the corner while he attempted to reach it. Thankfully we heard him and Tig quickly got up to investigate the noise. With bucket back up on his level and the green mat pulled right away from the dogs reach we got some sleep. At about 6.30am (pre dawn) it felt like half the campground got up to drive to the sunrise viewing area in the national park and made as much noise as possible. It sounded like everyone kept slamming there car doors and yelling at the top of their voices, but it probably just showed what nice quiet places we have been staying at. We had no intention of getting up and had been looking forward to a lazy lie in. Thankfully shortly before sunrise calm returned to the campground and after some more sleep we had our trademark lazy start to the day.

Once organised we ventured round to Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) for the Valley of the Winds walk. We walked in very slowly with the other hundred tourists and continued past where most stopped and turned around at the lookout. We continued down a steep rocky track and had a lovely lunch at a picnic table beside a stream in the middle of Kata Tjuta. After lunch we opted not to continue further onto the next lookout as we thought we had reached our limit with the kids and returned back to the car up the steep and rocky track. All the kids did a great job walking on the challenging track.




Next it was back to the campground to cook some BBQ pork to take to watch the sunset over Uluru. We arrived early, having done a drive through of the viewing area to identify the good spots to park, and watched the sun set on Uluru in style with refreshing drinks and fresh spring rolls for dinner prepared on the tail gate of the Landcruiser. Sunset was as spectacular as the postcards and very pleasant as we were there very early and therefor were not rushed at all.





Back to the main carpark at the rock at a reasonable hour the next day to join a guided walk along the Mala track at the base of Uluru. The walk was very popular and the guide was very interesting although a little difficult to hear with so many people.


Maddi was determined to climb the rock and applied great pressure to both of us. Tig took the two girls up to the beginning of the chain while Kai and Thea observed from below. Maddi agreed that it was very steep and she was a little nervous on the way down. We next went to the Cultural Centre for a picnic lunch before visiting inside. We observed an Aboriginal lady doing some paintings on canvas and looked at all the wooden artworks.


On returning to the caravan park we made friends with the family across the road (who we had also parked next to us the previous night at the sunset viewing area) and joined them for sunset on the sand dunes behind our caravans. The kids had a ball playing with the three older girls (12,10 & 9) on the sand dunes and again later in our caravan with one iPad between 2. Thankfully the new friends were heading to Kings Canyon Resort the next day too so the playtime could continue.


Next update maybe only hours away...

Tig and Thea

Rainbow Valley

Heading South from Alice we enjoyed one of the short moves that the grey nomads are famous for and headed to Rainbow Valley, just 75kms on the Stuart Highway and about 20kms on dirt into the Conservation Reserve.

The lady in the information centre in Alice had recommend Rainbow Valley as a nice place to camp and indicated we would get in but that the road was not the best and a 4WD was recommended. There was also mixed information on the forums about the road and the camping area, with the last couple of kms into the park getting a lot of comments for being narrow and sandy.

So after an easy drive on the bitumen down to the turn off it was onto the dirt. Less than a kilometre in we stopped to lower the tyre pressure as the road was very badly corrugated. We continued along at about 30 km/h slowing to 20 km/h or less for the really bad sections of corrugations. After suffering the rough road for 17kms we got to the park entry (a lonely sign and a cattle grid) and to my surprise a well formed gravel road and no corrugations. The last few kms was a breeze. As we drove into the campground before us stood the spectacular cliffs of rainbow valley. The campground was well laid out but very tight for large rigs like ours, we pulled up beside the only available spot that we would fit into and had a chat to our would-be neighbours for the night and who's view we were about to block. The lovely couple welcomed us and during the afternoon had many visits from our kids, Maddi especially as she did a great drawing of the cliffs to show them. Ray kindly helped me fix the jockey wheel which had lost a bolt on the rough roads around Lawn Hill. Like many of the seasoned travellers he had a good supply of nuts and bolts with them.

We had a very relaxing afternoon, this getting to our camping spot at lunchtime is fantastic and this beautiful weather is great. Lunch was inside the van with the view of the cliffs out the window. Later, we all went on the short walk to Mushroom Rock, a free standing rock along the valley floor that is incredibly weathered sandstone, taking in the spectacular cliff above the clay pan on the way.






We returned to camp in time to enjoy sunset over the valley and eat dinner as the light faded. The after dinner entertainment was hopping mice spotting, which for the 3 noisy kids was hard but for Thea and I easy. Every time the kids circled the van by torch light they sent the mice our way as they went around the other side of the van. Finally the kids were quiet enough for the mice to come onto the green mat while the kids were sitting still. We also had a short period after dinner, before the moon rose, where the star lit sky was amazing.



Another perfectly clear day followed, starting with a glowing sunrise out our window, breakfast of pancakes and dinner already cooking in the thermal slow cooker.


A relaxing pack up and back out the bumpy (understatement) road and we are on our way to Uluru for a few days.


Till next time.
Tig

Alice Springs

Having arrived in Alice in the cold and wet we hoped Friday would be a sunny day as forecast, but alas it was barely an improvement although the rain did clear up, it was still very cold. First stop was Anzac Lookout giving a great view over the town and a big flat area for the kids to run around in the freezing cold. Having got our bearings from above we went for a wander around town and had lunch at an inside cafe to keep out of the cold, followed by an ice-cream (go figure) for the kids while Tig moved the car and bought some new boots.


Then to the Information Centre to get all the details of where to visit and where to stay for the next two weeks and check on road conditions after all this unseasonal rain. Next it's into Woolworths for a two trolley food shop for just about everything we need for the next two weeks before we are back in Alice. Tig and the kids went looking for some boots for Maddi while Thea started filling the first trolley. The rest of the family returned successful just in time to do all the fruit and veg.

Back to the caravan park where the kids, who missed out on going on the jumping pillow yesterday, got to jump until their hearts content while Thea took on the huge task of finding a space in the caravan for all the new food and Tig sat out in the cold to supervise the kids on the jumping pillow until the sun set.

Fortunately the sun shone on us on Saturday as we headed out to some of the many tourist attractions in Alice. First up was the Pioneering Woman's Hall of Fame at the Old Gaol. Then across the road to the Royal Flying Doctor Service for a tour which included an interesting 10 minute video and chat with the tour guide about the great work the RFDS does around Australia. After a late lunch on the tailgate of the car in the car park it was on to the Old Telegraph Station north of town. On arrival at the Reserve around the Telegraph Station we realized we should have come here for lunch rather then the car park. The reserve just outside the Telegraph Station entrance is a lovely open grassed area with lots of ghost gums providing plenty of shade. There were a few larger groups picnicking, but with so much room you hardly noticed them. The Telegraph Station itself was fantastic. It had a great selection of buildings, information on what life at the turn of the century (1900) was like and many information boards to read and digest. The kids had fun running around the large open fenced in area and did at one point make a break through the fence in order to climb some nearby rocks. After wondering around a bit more they were rewarded by Tig with a climb up a steep rock to the top of a hill on the other side of the Todd River (which was actually flowing). From the top of the hill they could enjoy a bird’s eye view over the Telegraph Station buildings and call out to Thea below before making the steep descent on feet and bums back down again. On returning back to the caravan park they got themselves some more time on the jumping pillows before dinner and a good nights sleep was had by all.





The next morning we tried to take advantage of the free pancake breakfast on offer at the caravan park but with a queue a mile long we decided to give it a miss and go back to the jumping pillows for coco pops instead. The pancake event wasn’t really our cup of tea anyway as we (the adults that is) prefer the quieter campsites. The caravan park was great for a wash of the hair, van mains power battery recharge and kids playtime but we prefer the National Park camping grounds with basically no facilities and a lot less people and plenty of space. With almost all our jobs completed it was time to pack up and move on to a more relaxing and scenic location. On our way out of town Tig just had to make one last stop. A quick photo opportunity at Bloomfield Street in Alice Springs.


Next installment coming very soon…
Tig and Thea

Lawn Hill to Alice Springs

We got up and left beautiful Lawn Hill at a respectable time of 9.15am and made our way out of the park before turning south. Unfortunately our blog map doesn’t show accurately were we went as poor Google Maps can’t cope with directing us via this very minor road. Along this road there are four creek/river crossings and the Riversleigh Fossil Site, which is Heritage Listed. Our first stop was the fossil site. It had a very interesting information room and toilet block, both made of a fake rock construction (very well done) with a hole in the roof for natural light. We took the short walk around the fossil site and looked at and read all the information boards. We did however notice that this place wasn’t nearly as well signposted as Lawn Hill and nowhere could we find listed how long the walk was. We didn’t know if we were setting out on a 2-hour walk or just a 20-minute stroll (fortunately the latter). The fossils where interesting and the most captivating fossil was of a flightless bird they called Big Bird that weighted in between 250 and 300kg but was only 2 metres maximum tall, you get the picture.

After leaving the fossil site we came to the biggest creek crossing of the four, the Gregory River. We had on good information that it was only about a knee deep but flowing quite quickly. It had a lovely curved causeway so not a great concern until we where just reaching halfway across and I suddenly realized that Tig had us quiet close to the up stream edge of the causeway. As I pointed this out to him he replied ‘Can you see the edge?’ and drop, off we fell with car and van wheels. Thankfully Tig had his thinking cap on and did a fast foot down and dragged us out of trouble. With my heart pounding I nervously look at him as we low ranged it around the corner onto dry land, Maddi piped up from the back seat ‘That was a bit scary’. Understandably I was a little nervous for the next creek crossing and made sure before entering that we could clearly see the causeway.

After finally leaving the dirt track behind us we progressed to the one lane sealed road and then pulled into a rest area beside the Barkly Highway for a very late lunch. Here we had mobile reception so a few phone calls were made to source parts for our weight distribution system that we broke on the way into Lawn Hill. During lunch we had to make a decision on whether to turn west and head to Mt Isa as planned to restock or east and gain a day or two more in Central Australia. Since the part for the weight distribution system wasn’t available in Mt Isa or Alice Springs and would take two days to be posted in and we had just enough dinners for two more nights out we headed west for Camooweal.

In Camooweal we decided to free camp at a beautiful spot on the Billabong with masses of bird life. We even got to enjoy a cuppa before dinner watching our three monkeys climb the rather large gum we parked beside and all the bird life at the water’s edge. Tig told the kids we had to assume there might we crocs in the billabong in front of us and therefore they were not to go anywhere near the water. This made them stay close to the van and their tree and me definitely not going outside to use natures bathroom that night. Lucky we have a toilet in the van.

After a very quiet and enjoyable night we packed up once again and headed west on an epic drive to Tennant Creek. This stretch of road is very boring and Tig told me it was great preparation for the Nullabour. Thankfully it is over now and we said our good byes to Queensland and hellos to Northern Territory on this stretch.


On our arrival into Tennant Creek we drove into the first caravan park (of two) locked up the car and headed by foot into town. We didn’t realize it at the time but town was a little bit further away than we thought and it ended up being a rather long and hot walk. We did manage to find a supermarket for some bare essentials before piggybacking Kai back to the caravan park. The kids were amazed at how many Aborigines there were around the place and I was amazed at how much broken glass there was on the ground. Ella was only in thongs and I prayed she didn’t step on any of it. Maddi was amazed at how many Aborigines were walking around without any shoes on and didn’t seem to step in the glass.

Early on in the evening I thought it was going to be a very long and restless night when the owner of the caravan park started to yell at someone on what felt like the other side of the park about whether they were staying here or not and were meant to be here. Then an argument broke out with the final words being told to some bloke to ‘get out of here before I call the cops’. Thankfully after that it was a very quiet night and no dramas where had.

Next morning after a quick shop for some more essentials (not carrying them home on foot this time) and fuel we headed just a short 100kms south to our overnight resting place of the Devils Marbles. We pulled into the campground earlier than we have left some places previously and set up, which was lucky as the campground filled up by mid afternoon with large vans squeezing into small spaces by dusk. After a bite to eat and a quick clean of the bikes (just a tad dusty) we went for a bike ride around to the information board and the other rest stop. We had a great time with the four kids (Tig, Maddi, Ella and Kai) climbing all over the marbles and into any crack they could find. It is amazing how these rocks where created by weathering and how they are still ever changing. At one of the information areas there was a very relaxed looking dingo hanging out and watching all the tourists while posing for photographs. After returning to camp and a little journal writing for Maddi we took off and scaled the tallest marble stack we could see for sunset. Unfortunately the weather wasn’t in our favour and the cloud cover was too great for any beautiful sunsets today. We did have a great time sitting on the highest rock overlooking the campground counting all of the caravans, motorhome and odd tents below us. I found it quite nerve racking with the three kids who’s bottoms seemed to move closer to the edge if we weren’t looking for a second. Finally convincing them it was too windy and time to head down we headed back to camp for dinner and bed. It was a bit (ok, very) blowy over night so Tig and I made a late dash to put the awning down so as not to experience ‘awning on roof’ again. We decided to take only the canvas down and leave the framework up in case we decided to pull it out again in the morning.







The sun is rising quite late in the morning so I seem to be waking up (7am) before it at the moment. Unfortunately there was still cloud cover so no memorable sunrise on the Marbles photos to remember it by. The clouds even decided to spit on us a little as we finished packing up. The day turned out to be sunny but a little cold and we even managed to find a play park at Ti Tree for the kids at lunchtime. After a hasty departure from the play park due to a stray dog we headed a few more hours south into a very cold and rainy Alice Spring. On arriving in Alice (3pm and 8 degrees) we happen to drive past the shop we needed to pick up our ordered weight distribution part from, so had a quick stop before continuing onto the Big 4 MacDonnell Ranges Holiday Park for 3 nights. So here we are with extra blankets on our beds and ugg boots back on our feet as it is so cold. As Tig commented earlier this evening it feels like we are in Jindabyne, in winter, not Alice Springs.

Till next time …
Thea

Heading West & Lawn Hill National Park

We have started our journey West, into the dry centre of Australia heading to Alice Springs via Lawn Hill National Park. Not far from our overnight stay just west of the Great Dividing Range at Forty Mile Scrub National Park was Undara Volcanic National Park. We opted for a walk around the rim of Kalkani Crater over the guided tour of the lava tubes. It was fascinating to see the landscape dotted with volcano craters from the top of the rim.




We had booked into Lawn Hill National Park for 3 nights starting Friday so continued our long drive west with only 3 days to cover the thousand odd kilometers with varying road conditions . There are very few camping spots at Lawn Hill National Park and especially one that can fit in our size caravan. By booking only one week in advance we were fairly limited by our choice of dates and had opted for this weekend rather than next weekend as it was fully booked mid week.

We are traveling on ‘The Savannah Way’ which crosses from Cairns to Broome and the further west we got, so to the more variable the road conditions, from excellent sealed two lanes to the single strip of potholed bitumen down the middle. Lunch was in Georgetown and for a very small town they had a great playground and a shady picnic table.

With not many good camping spots available we pushed on through Croydon to Normanton arriving just on sunset with the last hour or so being very hard driving west into the sun. Earlier the caravan in front of us had collected a kangaroo and they did not even know that it hit the side of their caravan.

The caravan park in Normanton was lovely and we got to enjoy the State of Origin second hand from the pub across the road. Given the amount of cheering by the locals the game obviously went Queensland’s way.

The reward of our long drive the day before was a late start the next day. We enjoyed a walk around town where the kids found Kry, the largest crocodile ever recorded in Australia, or at least a life size replica which was very impressive at 8.63m long and a mouth that Maddi could lie down in.


Further through town we found the Visitor Information Centre complete with Normanton library. The lady behind the counter was extremely helpful and the kids were kept quiet and entertained in the children’s corner of the library.

After a quick stop at the local bakery, which had the best sausage rolls so far, we headed out of Normanton continuing on the Savannah Way, which is now a good dirt road. We swapped drivers near Burke and Wills Camp 119, their most northern camp, and the road conditions deteriorated for Thea.

A late lunch was had at Leichhardt Falls, a spectacular set of waterfalls complete with helicopter perched right on top of the falls. From there we headed down on a road less travelled through Augustus Downs Station. We saw only a single car in the hour or so drive south but saw thousands of cattle mostly standing on the road. The kids all had a great time cow spotting.



Back on the sealed road and yet again heading west at sunset we drove into Gregory Downs as there was no suitable camping spots along the road. At Gregory Downs there were a few old camp fire places so the kids suggested that we have a campfire too. There was just enough light left in the day to collect a little amount of firewood and get a fire going. While dinner was being cooked the kids enjoyed a marshmallow each, just in case the fire was out after dinner. The kids ate dinner well that night as we sat around the campfire and they couldn’t distinguish what was in their bowls.

With only a short 100km to travel the next day we set off on the good quality dirt road which deteriorated after a turn off to a local mine and then got even worse with some road works. The other upside of the mine was some patchy mobile reception to shoot off a couple of quick emails. A highlight was the road train coming towards us, which looked spectacular with the cab and front half of the cargo sitting out in front of a cloud of dust. Visibility however was non-existent for a good 30 seconds after he passed us. It has also surprised us how very few people slow down when passing oncoming traffic on dirt roads.


It was nice to arrive at Lawn Hill for lunch, set up and have a quick dip in the river complete with tyre tubes. While we were swimming a family with two girls came back from canoeing up to the falls and joined us for a swim and we made some new friends.


Over our three days at Lawn Hill National Park we spent our time walking the well-marked tracks, canoeing up and back to the falls, swimming in the river and around the falls, and spending time with our new friends.

Lawn Hill is the type of place you need to spend a number of days at so to enjoy the relaxed and remote atmosphere and take in the many walks and look outs. Even though it is a dry and weathered landscape it has a very magical and peaceful feel about it. Particularly when up on the escarpment that surrounds the gorge. We were surprised how everything was in such close proximity to the campground. Even Kai, with a little jelly snake encouragement, was able to tackle the walks.





Swimming at the falls was a family favourite, we paddled the canoe up there on Saturday, and amazingly did not lose anyone over board as we had 5 in the 3 man canoe. On Sunday we then walked up to the falls and met the Derrick family for lunch at the falls after lots and lots of swimming. On the way back to camp after lunch Thea had the luxury of a few hours away from the kids and walked the grassed and wild flowered rim of the gorge and took her time at the lookouts. Many photos were taken to try and capture the beauty but they do not do it justice.






The kids were sad to say farewell to their new friends as we are traveling in opposite directions but hopefully we will get to catch up with them again as we pass by their home later in the year.

From Lawn Hill we will travel a little south and then a bit west to restock before heading into central Australia.

Till next time…
Tig and Thea