Cape Range to Kalbarri

After our time in Cape Range National Park we headed south to the very popular holiday destination of Coral Bay. Since it was school holidays it was jammed packed with Perth holidays makers and with little room at either caravan park we decided just to spend the day there. Our first impressions of Coral Bay were not great but that might have been due to the overcast day (first day of bad weather in months), over populated, cold and not really set up for day visitors. We managed to walk along the beach, up to a look out and return to the village for lunch at the Bakery. After 2 hours we felt we had seen everything in Coral Bay and it was hardly swimming weather so moved on.

Looking back at Coral Bay from the Lookout 

We put in a big effort driving wise and made it to Carnarvon by late afternoon. Just enough time to see their Dish and their One Mile Jetty both of which are no longer used. One Mile Jetty also had a Museum and a lookout over One Mile Jetty constructed in an old raised water tank. It had some great old machinery including some trains so Kai was very excited. After our late viewing of One Mile Jetty we had to find a caravan park for the night. Thankfully we managed a late check in, into the one in town and even got a site where we didn’t have to unhitch which is always helpful when we are only there one night.

One Mile Jetty in the distance to the right

Water tank Lookout at One Mile Jetty

Museum at Carnarvon

Tractor

Train

Girls having a go the old fashion way 

The next day we headed for Denham for 2 nights, so we could visit Monkey Mia and the dolphins and see some surrounding sights. On arrival at Denham we queued to get into the caravan park, which was publised as the most western caravan park of Australia and the ground was covered in tiny shells. Being school holidays it was busy with lots of families but was well set up with wide sites and good amenities. Unfortunately on our final morning when we tried to have a shower we discovered there was no cold water. Yes I said ‘cold water’. Apparently there was a hole in the bore water line further down the hill in the caravan park and therefore the showers no longer had cold water, only hot. Certainly couldn’t shower as the water was burning.

Looking out at the water from Denham township 

Our day at Monkey Mia was a lovely warm sunny day and we managed to get to see the dolphins for the second feeding of the day. This was a lot less crowded then the first (which apparently had about 200 people) and we got to see them up close in the wild. The show took a long time to get going so we spent about 30 minutes waiting for the actual feeding listening to a ranger talk via a wireless speaker. She was very good but it was to long a wait for our children and even some of the dolphins who headed back to sea before getting a feed. Unfortunately we were not one of the lucky people selected from the crowd to actually feed them a fish but it was still a great experience and the kids did come back to see it take place.

Here comes a dolphin

Now we have four

Only a metre from our feet

Waiting patiently to be feed

The wait was to long for the kids

We spend the rest of the day relaxing the enjoying the sunshine, sand and information boards around the place. Ella decided that she wanted to climb a pole outside the café/restaurant and she wanted to reach some wires that where attached about roof height up it. She managed to do it and get the photos to prove it. She has become a monkey at climbing poles as well as our mountain goat when walking up hills. We also decided to take a short camel ride as a family and met Henk and his three beautiful camels Digger, Bella and Camellia. It was a great experience and we had a great chat to Henk about his camels and lifestyle up at Monkey Mia. Camellia is particularly taken by beards and so Tig sporting an after 5 shadow got some lovely face rubs with her. Thankfully she doesn’t follow with a kiss.

Ella and her climbing pole

Relaxing at the jetty before our camel ride

Five Bloomfields on camels

Kai giving Bella a pat

Maddi and Camellia

Kai and Camellia

Ella and Camellia

Camellia giving Tig's whiskers a rub

On our way out of Denham we stopped at Eagle Bluff to see if we could spot any sharks, dugongs or stingrays in the shallow waters. We did manage to see some but it was so far away that it was hard to identify exactly what it was. We also stopped in at Shell Beach to admire this natural landmark. It was amazing seeing a beach made up of all these tiny shells. New shells are regularly deposited on the beach so it is considered a renewable resource and has been mined by the Shell Grit Industry since the 1960s. Another interesting fact is that WA poultry industry relies on loose shells. They feed the shell grit to the chickens as the minerals enables the chickens to produce hard eggshells.

Eagle Bluffs shallow waters

Ella enjoying her morning tea with a view

Shell Beach from the main road

Running out to the water at Shell Beach

Tig and Ella strolling off to the waters edge

Kai and Ella

Maddi and Tig discussing shells at Shell Beach

Ella and Kai playing in the shells

We spent the night at a very popular free camp rest area on the Murchison River. After some late evening fishing Tig and Maddi spotted a familiar camper trailer on their way back to the van. It was the family we had camped next to at Kurrajong Campground in Cape Range National Park. They were on their way back to Perth at the end of the school holidays. We were very impressed by their Camprite camper trailer and this time got to see it all packed up.

The following day we had only a short morning drive before reaching Kalbarri National Park. After stopping off at Hawks Head and Ross Graham Lookouts where we walked down to the river we headed into Kalbarri township to set up the van and have some lunch before returning to the northern area of the park in the afternoon. It was at least a 20km corrugated drive into the main attractions of the national park and we didn’t feel it was necessary to tow the van in when the township was only 11km from the turn off. Kalbarri is a gorgeous coastal township bigger then we had expected. After lunch we drove back to the National Park and visited Z Bends and Natures Window. It was warm and the flies where very bad but the kids did very well with their walking all things considered. Natures Window is an eroded hole in the rock through which you have a spectacular view of the valley behind. After our photo shot in front of the window we ducked back around to the shaded and protected side to have some afternoon tea on a rock ledge. From here Kai was able to greet the back packers walking by on their way to Natures Window with a ‘G’day’. One of these back packers had said it to him and after that he couldn’t help himself. It was quite funny watching him issue a G’day to anyone who was within earshot.

Hawks Head Lookout

Maddi and Ella crossing the Murchison River

Walking in Kalbarri National Park

Tig captured by three snapping crocodiles

Z Bends Lookout

Natures Window

Looking through the window

Our afternoon tea rock shelf

The following morning we caught up on the washing (4 loads) and decided to back a picnic lunch and head for the Kalbarri National Park coastal section. We arrived at Eagle Gorge and walked down to the beach before we found another sheltered rock ledge to spread out the picnic rug and have our lunch. Tig took the kids across the rocks to watch the waves come in before playing on the beach. We returned up the slope to the car and headed further south to view more rugged coastline at Natures Bridge and Island Rock.

Eagle Gorge and Beach

Lunch at Eagle Gorge

Maddi and Tig on the rocks

Island Rock in Kalbarri National Park

Natures Bridge in Kalbarri National Park

Maddi infront of Island Rock

On our return to the caravan park we found we had new neighbours who had two young girls. After our initial introductions we got talking about where kids slept in our vans and who had the top bunks. Kylie mentioned that another family they met had two kids who swapped beds each time they changed the sheets. It turned out we new this family, the Chapmans, who we had travelled from Alice Springs up to Katherine with. Kylie and James along with their girls Charli and Chelsea had also travelled with the Chapmans visiting the Bungle Bungles and some other places with them.

That night we had a dinner out at the local café/restaurant, which had an interesting sign out the front saying ‘No Book, No Cook’. The kids have often recited this at odd times since then, especially Ella who thinks it is quite funny. This sign did provide Tig and I with much discussion over dinner as we watched at least 5 different parties arrive hoping for dinner only to be turned away at the door. Obviously we had booked. We couldn’t understand why they would turn people away when their were plenty of tables available but on questioning the staff while paying we discovered that they put it in place during school holidays so to ensure they don’t get over run with clientele especially since it is a tourist town. We still couldn’t completely understand, as there were plenty of tables and plenty of staff. It was a good night out with a lovely meal for us.

Next day it was pack up and move on day, which we did very slowly and Tig helped James out with a little bike mechanics before we left. We once again had people waiting for our site before we had moved out.

Next up in our adventure it is down to Perth to meet up with our Sydney friends Grant, Jenny and Kee Chan.

Thea & Tig

Cape Range National Park

On the 7th October we had a very excited little girl who woke a little earlier then usual in order to start her birthday celebrations. She spent her morning taking phone calls, opening presents and eating a breakfast of crumpets, her choice. After all the morning birthday celebrations where completed we headed for Cape Range National Park and our prebooked camping spot at Kurrajong camp.

Maddi opening her presents

Our first stop was Vlamingh Lighthouse that was built in 1912. It gave us a good view of the surrounding landscape and especially of the area that makes up Ningaloo Reef. We also saw a few familiar faces of other families we have seen on the road travelling around Australia.

Vlamingh Lighthouse built 1912

Kids take a look through the window

View towards Exmouth side of the Cape

View of Ningaloo Reef on National Park side of the Cape

The birthday girl with her Zhu Zhu Pet

Next we entered the park and had a quick stop at the National Parks Visitor Information Centre and enquired about snorkeling gear hire. Then it was onto Kurrajong Camp to set up our van and take a walk over the dune to our almost private beach. We really only shared it with the other 8 campsites at Kurrajong. We had a little dip in the ocean with our swimming goggles just to see what we could see near the shore. It was refreshing but very choppy and the kids found it very difficult and a little cold (due to the strong winds) and we think they all took on a little water. We decided to play in the sand for a while and then back over the rise for a rinse off using the outside shower and a trug. I wish we had some photos but with the trug balancing on the top of the stepladder and a child standing in it in order for the hose to be long enough it was all hands on deck.

Kurrajong Beach after our dip

Maddi on Kurrajong Beach

Our camping spot at Kurrajong Camp

Cape Range National Park has many self-sufficient camp areas all named and most with a Camp Host. Our camp hosts where Des and Tanya and they were appointed to Kurrajong Camp for an 8 week block. Their duties were to greet campers, provide information, keep the pit toilets clean and of course keep us in line. Tanya loved entertaining the kids with games of hide and seek on the dunes while we and the other campers had 6pm drinks on the top of the sand dune overlooking the ocean and of course the sun set. Des was a world of information for future camping spots on our journey south even having a print out information sheet with free/cheap camp spots listed along with a little blurb. There was quite a range of campers at Kurrajong with the usual Grey Nomads, an older Dutch couple visiting Australia and doing a road trip of the West Coast, a family with two teenagers on school holidays from Perth and a couple with one little girl 3 years old.

After drinks it was time for Maddi’s birthday dinner of Hot Dogs, Ris A’Lamand and cupcake birthday cake, all her choice again. For those of you who don’t know Ris A’Lamand is the traditional Danish Christmas Pudding which is made up of rice, crushed almonds, milk, sugar and cream with 1 whole almond that when found, the person who found it gets a prize. Maddi was insistent that there was to be a prize and Thea was insistent that her family tradition was the prize was to be shared. Maddi wasn’t so keen on sharing but amazingly she had the whole almond in her portion and she did share. I say amazingly as Tig might have had something to do with the almond suddenly appearing in her bowl, not that she realized it. Of course as soon as the almond was found Thea gained the remains of the kids portions and has made a mental note to make only half quantity come Christmas.

Maddi's birthday cakes

Ella not so impressed

Three cheeky monkeys

Maddi on the satelite phone talking to Gran and Pa

The next day we went on a Glass Bottom Boat Tour on Ningaloo Reef as it was the easiest way for the kids to see some of the reef and its marine life. Snorkeling is a little hard for them and Maddi was the only one who really gave snorkeling a go and she did do very well although she did take on quite a bit of water at times when the sea became choppy. 

Heading to board our Glass Bottom Boat

Kids looking through the glass bottom

After our tour we decided to head back to the Visitor Information Centre to hire two sets of snorkeling gear. One set for the adults to share and one set for the girls to share. We were pretty sure that Kai wouldn’t be interested or able to snorkel, which we were correct. We then headed straight to a bay called Lakeside, which had some good kid friendly snorkeling. Maddi loved it and Tig and Thea took turns taking her out. Ella wasn’t as keen on the water as it was quite blowy and after a quick dip returned to a towel for some upside down (head down the slope) sun baking. She got a lesson on what happens when lying in the sun when you don’t have sunscreen on your legs by getting a little burnt. Kai decided that the water didn’t interest him either and was a little wary from the day before so he just played on the sand with a rock being his train. In the afternoon we returned to camp for a late lunch and a play by the van before the nightly 6pm drinks on the dune. This time we were rewarded in the dusk by some whale action on the far horizon. It was hard to make out due to the increasing darkness but you could just see movement and sprays on the water that was from a whale or two.

Ella having a swim at Lakeside

Tig and Maddi about to begin their first snorkel together

Lakeside

The next morning after a late start we headed to the picture perfect spot called Turquoise Bay. Here Tig and Maddi snorkeled the rip while Thea took Ella and Kai around the corner out of the wind to the family friendly bay.  The rip is formed by the swell coming in over the reef and funneling along the shore to the point where it returns out to the ocean. This steady flow of water along the beach means that you can swim out the 20m to the coral reef and just float a few hundred metres up the beach, remembering of course to get out before you float out to sea. This was perfect when assisting a budding snorkeler but you still had to steer around the bomies. Maddi did really well and insisted on another run. There was so much to see that you could have drifted and walked back up the beach all day but after two goes it was time to join the rest of the family in the protected bay. Maddi then took Thea back to the rip for a Maddi guided tour. Unfortunately by this time the wind had picked up even more and Maddi had a hard time trying not to collect water in her snorkel so after one run of the rip they returned to the sheltered bay. In the bay there was a little bit of snorkeling to be done and Thea and Tig took turns venturing out a little further to a coral outcrop to inspect the many fish varieties. Maddi by this time was happy playing with Kai in the sand so we tried to encourage Ella to have a go of the snorkel. Ella unfortunately found it too hard and took on water via the goggles so she quickly gave up. Thea did manage to get her swimming goggles on her and she swam in the shallows with her watching two different types of fish, which seemed to be very curious of them.

Getting organised to snorkel Turquoise Bay Rip

Off they go!

Protected Turquoise Bay

Ella checking out the water

Kai and Ella playing in the sand

Getting Ella ready for a little snorkelling

After lots of playing in the sun, surf and sand it was time to back up and find somewhere new for lunch. After a drive to the far end of the sealed road in the park (Yardie Creek) we came back to stop at Sandy Bay where we had seen some kites flying from the road. As we approached the beach from the car park we realized the kites were actually Kite Surfers and we enjoyed our picnic lunch on the sand watching the Kite Surfers preform tricks, twists and crashes. It was very entertaining and as the Kite Surfers left we decided it was time for us to head back to camp too.

Kite Surfers at Sandy Bay

Our lunchtime entertainment

Son hitched a ride on Dad's back

The next morning was our departure day so we did an evening pack up of awning and chairs etc, so we could make an early start. Our time at Cape Range National Park was very much enjoyed and we know we have only just scratched the surface of things to see and do here so it is definitely going on our list of places to come back to. Next time we need to stay at least a week, or two.

Till next time …

Thea and Tig