Top End Loop

This is going to be a long one as it covers a jam-packed 10 days while we did a little loop from Darwin to Kakadu to Katherine to Litchfield National Park and back to Darwin. My passengers were, Grandad (Geoff/my dad), Sue (my stepmum), Maddi, Ella and Kai. Also, I have got access to my father’s photos and for those who know him he is quite the happy snapper so I have lots to show you.

Here we go…

We left Darwin after doing my first (without Tig) hook-up of the van. Thankfully everything appeared in order and I pulled the big beast out of the caravan park and onto the main road out of town. Dad, my trusty navigator, van hook-up partner and photographer captured the moment for perpetuity; or maybe to show hubby that I had been listening when he was giving me instructions. Somehow I quickly went from pupil to teacher and was teaching dad what needed to be done and in which order. Dad thankfully was a very obliging pupil and wanted to try his hand at everything to do with the caravan (even helping with toilet emptying… by holding the water hose). He did offer to drive a couple of times but I was happy to keep that role to myself so I could at least say I did it. It’s late… you can tell as I am dribbling on a bit. Anyway, we headed out of Darwin and turned onto the Arnhem Highway. I was secretly hoping we would pass our friends the Chapmans on their way out of Kakadu. I had no idea of their travel plans since leaving them at Bitter Springs other than that they would be at Katherine getting the car fixed and then Kakadu and then Darwin… no timeframes, just places. Just as I was driving along thinking I should have emailed them as per my husband’s suggestion, I notice this very familiar Landcruiser with red jerry can on the roof and caravan on the back coming towards me. Quick check in the side mirror once they passed for the bikes on the back and sure enough it was them. After a brief conversation on the 2-way before we got out of radio signal range, we continued on our merry way with a very unhappy Maddi in the back who couldn’t understand why we weren’t going to stop somewhere with the Chapmans for lunch. Thankfully after a quick explanation that they were heading in the opposite direction to us and the promise of the possibility of seeing them again somewhere, sometime in the future she settled down. Surprisingly enough we did see them again, same situation just north of Pine Creek exactly one week later. To the Chapmans – Dane, keep telling dad to slow down, we will catch up with you eventually.



Our first stop was the Bark Hut which is about half way between Darwin and Jabiru (sort of the main town in Kakadu and our destination). Dad and Sue wondered off with the kids and found all sort of animals near the beer garden where about 20 friendly bikies were enjoying an ale.



On arrival at Jabiru we found our appropriate accommodations at the Lake View Tourist Park. Kids and I in a powered ensuite site and Dad and Sue 150m down the road in their permanent tent. Very classy, but you had to watch your head, the door was a little low. The kids quickly noticed that Grandad and Sue had a bunk bed in their little room as well as a double and at least the girls wanted a sleep over. This however did not happen. The kids would often wander between the two sites with a two-way to communicate with me or Grandad and I had to hold them off in the morning to ensure Sue had a chance to wake up before they arrived.



We spent our 3 full days in Kakadu checking out the different areas of this large National Park. The first day we visited the Bowali Visitor Information Centre. We wandered through the displays and read all the signs, teaching the kids as much as possible so they got the most out of it. I learnt some interesting facts too, like did you know that all Barramundi are born as males and when they are about 7 years old they change into females? Interesting? We also paid our $25 a head, 14 Day Park User Fee for the adults and got some local information on what to do and see. We decided to travel south to Cooinda for our picnic lunch and while we were there got full use of their facilities. The kids and I even used the pool while Grandad and Sue had a quiet ice cream out of kid view. Yes, I did see you too.







On our second day we headed to the northern part of the park and did the little Bardedjilidji Sandstone walk. It was stinking hot and the kids got pretty grumpy but the change in scenery and rock formations were interesting to see. Thankfully there were numbered self-guide information sheets so the kids had something to keep them distracted while they looked for the next number along the track. After our bush walk we headed to the East Alligator River for a lunch spot and a bit of salt water croc spotting. Wow, there were masses of them and they certainly put on a show. All would be quiet as we watched 2 or 3 of them moving around in the current then SNAP. One would have a go at a fish somewhere across the river. Watching the tourists moving around the waters edge with camera in hand was rather entertaining too, if not a little nerve racking at times. One particular gentlemen didn’t seem to think anything could be lurking in the water and as he neared the water’s edge, he would turn his back.






After lunch we headed to nearby Merl campground for a weaving demonstration by some local Aboriginal ladies from Arnhem Land organised by the National Park. It was very interesting learning how to weave baskets and bracelets from the local pandanus plants. One quiet lady named Audrey sat splitting pandanus leaves width-wise while the other more chatty lady, Hannah, ground roots to make different coloured dyes for the leaves. All materials had been gathered that morning prior to the demonstration. Once the leaves were split (which a number of us tried and couldn’t do) and the roots were ground, they were both boiled up in a billy of water until the leaves had taken up the colour. Once this was done the leaves were cooled under cold water and hung in a tree to dry. We all had a go at making a bracelet to take with us using a simple blanket stitch to hold the filler together. I would love to make one of these types of baskets, but apparently it can take them up to 2 months to make one, so I don’t think this will be happening anytime soon.






After our weaving experience we headed to Ubirr rock to cook up dinner, listen to the ranger presentations on the Aboriginal Art Sites and watch the sunset over the vast plains. Watching the sunset from Ubirr is very popular so we watched it with 200+ of our closest friends. The kids don’t quite understand the lead up to the sunset experience so for them it was just playtime on the rocks. The kids and I did however depart just prior to the sun setting to avoid as many mosquitos as possible that come out like vultures once the sun goes down.







After day two I was just exhausted so I spent the morning of our final full day hanging around camp while Dad and Sue took the kids to Jabiru pool. Dad said it was the best pool ever and particularly liked the massive shade cloth that hangs over it. They did all appear quiet relaxed by the time I picked them up at midday.


After lunch we headed 50 minutes down the road to our Yellow Waters Sunset Cruise. As usual the cruise was fabulous and the kids did well with the limited space to move around and the 2 hour duration. Lyle, our guide was fantastic and had obviously had kids on his boat before. When it came time for him to shut off the engine so we could take in the peace and quiet and ambience of Yellow Waters he came strolling down to the front of the boat with chuppa chupps to keep my crew quiet. It worked a treat until one of them dropped theirs on the floor.












Next morning we packed up the van and set off down the Kakadu Highway, left the park via the southern gate and headed to our next stop at Katherine. That however is another story which you will have to wait a little longer for.

Till next time …
Thea

Darwin

With 9 days in Darwin to kill we set about doing our long list of jobs. These included hair cuts, a doctors appointment, car service and general odds and ends shopping. We enjoyed the many attractions Darwin had on offer starting with a dinner at Stokes Hill Pier for Barra & Chips for the adults, fresh prawns for Ella and Thai Honey Chicken for Maddi. Kai just grazed a little from everyone else’s plates and washed it down with a few more chips. Stokes Hill Pier is a lovely place to sit, eat and take in the Darwin atmosphere. It is a little nerve racking for parents if you sit in the main eating area as it is completely unfenced and the drop into the croc infested ocean can vary greatly depending on the tide. For us it was rather relaxing as we spied a lovely upper level where we had plenty of room and no scary drop issues. Maddi did manage to lose her thong over the edge at one point which thankfully landed on noone's head or in a meal. It was also retrievable which was a great relief to Maddi. After our meal we purchased a couple of ice creams and jelly cups and discovered that Darwin City Council isn’t so silly and have set up on the other side of the wharf a ‘child safe’ area which is a fenced area with a few picnic tables and chairs overlooking the newly developed Harbour Precinct. We had a great night out and even got to walk past Captain James Cook’s Endeavour on the way back to the car.




Other places we visited in Darwin were the Leanyer Recreation Park or otherwise known to the kids as the Water Park. This place is great and a must for anyone with kids travelling to Darwin. It is a free park that has a shallow lagoon, play equipment with a massive water bucket that dumps a huge amount of water roughly every 3 minutes. It also has little water sprayers, buckets, jets all over the play equipment and some of those regular mushroom things like Hornsby Pool used to have. It also has (I think) 3 giant slides (still all free). You have to be 120cm tall to ride on them. Maddi reaches the mark but Ella falls short by only a couple of centimetres. As yet we haven’t tried out the slides but Maddi is dead keen to do so. As well as this water fun equipment there is also lots of tables and chairs, large grassy area, huge dry play equipment and convenient free parking. We are definitely going back for another go at this place.


We also visited Darwin International Airport to drop off and pick up a few passengers. Tig had to unfortunately return to work for a few weeks, much to his disappointment, but it was prearranged so we both knew it was coming and I am still explaining to Maddi that he had to and that he wishes he was with us instead. We also welcomed the arrival of my dad (Grandad) and stepmum (Sue) to our little adventure. Since the van doesn’t sleep 6 they have opted to stay at the lovely Novotel in Darwin rather then cram in with us and I don’t blame them. I am wondering if I could swap places with them for just one night to have a break from the kids bedtime routine.

Since picking up the grandparents we have taken a ferry ride to Mandorah (the other side of the harbour), fed the fish by hand at Aquascene and visited the Territory Wildlife Park at Berry Springs which is about 45 minutes south of Darwin.

Mandorah was a typical nothing there type of place but we did enjoy seeing the hundreds of fish at the jetty and admire the patience of the lady trying to catch some with her three different fishing lines. We also enjoyed our refreshing drinks and the gold fish living in the blender on the bar counter. The blender was plugged in and everything but apparently didn’t work. I wasn’t game enough to test it however.

Aquascene is a cornered off part of Darwin Harbour where they give presentations and provide bread to feed the hundreds of fish by hand. The kids and I all got our feet wet trying to get just a little closer to the fish and even got to pat a few if you where game enough. The girls did well but Kai wasn’t so brave and the closest he got to the fish was his hand on top of mine while I patted it. The poor boy being so small meant he was almost swimming in the water to be deep enough for the fish to come up to his legs. We saw some huge barramundi, sting rays and crabs as well.



Territory Wildlife Park was surprisingly better then I had expected. All the exhibits where quite spaced out and therefore lots of walking was done in the hot weather. Thankfully they do have a shuttle train, which is more like an open-air bus to help you get around if you desired. The aquarium was excellent with spotless viewing glass on masses of tanks and an underwater tunnel complete with scuba diver feeding the fish and turtles. It put Sydney Aquarium to shame big time and certainly would be worth another visit. The aquarium's resident Salt Water Crocodile is named Graham and he certainly smiled for the camera with his multiple position changes and staring eyes. The bird show was very well done and they had a few different birds out for viewing at the end of the show, which you could go up to and either hold or just have your taken photo with. One was the Barking Owl, which was fantastic to hear once we got him going. The Eagle was a big sook that even snuggled up to the keeper at one stage when she scratched under its wing. Maddi and Sue got a little shock when they visited the first enclosure of the Monsoon Forest Walk on our way to the Bird Aviary. They walked into the half building and suddenly water started spraying down in the display, thunder clapped and growled. The display was showing what it is like in the Monsoon period and it certainly was a heart starter for them since they weren’t expecting it. The Bird Aviary had masses of turtles in the stream below. It was just amazing to see so many in one place.








After our long weekend with the grandparents in Darwin we packed up camp and have moved onto our loop around the top end but more about that next time.

Till then…
Thea