Cockle Creek, Tasmania

Friday, January 6, 2012

East Coast Tasmania

Heading East from Hobart we made our way down the Tasman Peninsula. First stop was the Tasmanian Devil Conservation Park at Taranna to see a bird show and some baby Tassie Devils, they were so cute although they easily chewed through 10mm think bones for their lunch. Maddi volunteered to have a falcon fly between her legs, very brave. After lunch we continued on to find our camping spot at Fortesque Bay in the Tasman National Park. Around the first corner on the narrow dirt road we met a huge logging truck, which somehow made it passed us as we dived into the scrub as much as we could, van and all, to avoid being squashed. A little further along was another one, we were prepared but still dived off the road just in time. We were very wary for the rest of the trip and had a hard time trying to select a campsite that was big enough, flat enough and out of the smoke drift from another camping group. We weren't overly impressed with the area as the walking tracks were closed and without a boat there wasn't a great deal to do except a load or two of washing. However, we did meet the Varley family (Mark, Michelle, Jack, Tom, Sam and Lily) there who had travelled from Perth and hadn't met many kids along the way. We shared a campfire both nights and Thea experimented by making a coconut and raspberry damper in the camp oven that turned out very well and disappeared in no time.
Three baby devils with mum at the back
Fortesque Bay Camp
Kai, Tom, Lily, Ella, Maddi, Jack and Sam at pancake breakfast
A friendly echidna around camp
While staying at Fortesque Bay we day tripped to Port Arthur Convict Ruins. Thea was a little unsure if she wished to visit this site due to the Port Arthur Massacre and her past visit when she had found the place quite eerie and depressing. This time however the sun was shining, their was no obvious memorial for the massacre that we saw and we had a great day exploring all the different buildings, surrounding grounds and even taking a boat ride to get a view of the islands which are part of the site from the water. Once again we bumped into the Varley family a few times and all up we found Port Arthur to be good value for money and not as expensive as some other attractions. Our ticket gave us excess to the site for the following day as well, which we decided not to take up as by this time the kids and ourselves where all Port Arthured out.
Port Arthur from the water
Looking down on the main building
Looking up the hill towards the officers quarters
Port Arthur Chapel
Kai taking in the view from the Commandants residence
Before leaving Fortesque Bay we gained some tourist sites knowledge from Michelle while Maddi joined Tom and Sam for some fishing at the jetty. Tom appeared after about a half hour with a fish dangling off his line and spinning another line that they had caught a shark too. Of course this got our attention and we all proceeded down to the jetty to find a hive of activity. Some local fishermen where unloading their catch from the nets at the jetty and we managed to score ourselves some free Tasmanian Salmon.  Apparently, the fishermen could only get about $1.50 per kilo for it as it is only good for bait since there is too much supply. They were targeting Trevally, which they had a few containers of and can get $8 per kilo. The fishermen where very kind and gave Tig a lesson is scaling, gutting and filleting and also removed the heads for us. Since dinner had already been prepared and was slowly cooking in our trusty thermal cooker the fish waited till the next night when we enjoyed some pan fried fillets and some baked whole fish with tomato, onion and lemon as per the fishermen’s instructions.

The jetty at Fortesque Bay
Tig, Ella and Michelle having a filleting lesson
Our fish before a sea water wash
Tig our now expert descaler
After our fishing adventure we finally left camp (our latest yet) at 2pm and made our way to the small town of Campania just north of the historical town of Richmond for the night. We stayed in a nice rest area at the local park. There was another traveling couple there and 4 French back packers who were waiting for the start of the cherry-picking season. They had two cars and had taken over the picnic table with every possession they had laid out, which was hastily pack away with a light shower of rain over night. We did stop off at a few local tourist attractions, Tasman Blowhole, Tasman Arch and a drive through the small town of Doo Town on our way.

Tasman Arch
Tasman Blowhole
East coast of Tasman Peninsula
The following day we went to investigate Richmond which has the oldest bridge in Australia, built in 1823. The township is made up of many historic buildings, which house gift shops, a bakery and a lolly shop of course. After lunch at the bakery and a very slow process of $1 worth of lollies per child at the lolly shop we wandered back towards the car crossing the historic bridge. Just as we where about the cross the bridge Thea spied a familiar car and campervan driving across. It was the Varley family again whom we had left the day before at Fortesque Bay. After a catch up and some lolly eating we crossed the bridge to return to the car and van but not before arranging to meet up with the Varley family in Devonport the following week.

Richmond Bridge - Australia's oldest bridge
Tig, Kai and Tom
Maddi, Lily and Ella
The afternoons driving took us to Coles Bay and the local caravan park. After setting up on our second smallest site ever we cooked our free fish, bought a few chips from the local shop and enjoyed our feast. We ate well which was needed as the next day we took the kids for a little walk in Freycinet National Park. Tig first completed an early ride to Cape Tourville, before a family walk to the famous Wine Glass Bay lookout. It was getting rather warm but we decide after consultation with the kids to venture down to the beach, another 1.5km of steps down (which we impressed on the kids also meant a steep climb back up). We ate our lunch on the beach and played at the waters edge before walking back up. The kids did a fantastic job and Kai didn't complain once. He got lots of thumbs up from the Asian tourists walking down who thought he was very clever walking such a challenging walk back up. Maddi didn't think it was fair that they were all interested in Kai giving him thumbs up when it was a tough walk for a seven year old too. After our 6km return walk we drove around to Cape Tourville to wander the boardwalk, enjoy the view and visit another lighthouse.

Examining our walk
Kids thought this was like Pearlie's Shell in 'Pearlie the Park Fairy' 
Kids at little out of buff at the top of the climb
Wine Glass Bay
Refuelling at the lookout
Lunch time at Wine Glass Bay
Girls risk getting wet
Tourville Boardwalk
Looking back at Wine Glass Bay from Tourville
Kai and his jelly snake
The following day we moved onto a free camp on the lower section of Bay of Fires near St Helens. We had a glorious beachfront spot, which provided us with plenty of breeze and the next day with lots of rain. With the weather closing in we decided to leave the van and go exploring further inland. We took some good forest trails through the nearby state forests and found a lovely little picnic spot for lunch at Halls Falls before moving on to St Columba to see the waterfall. We then decided to take some more Tasmanian C class roads which we would call more like E or even F class as often they were just a single lane dirt track winding through the mountain sides with few pull off areas for passing vehicles. We were thankful we didn't have the van attached on our days explore. As we navigated our way back to the van we kept our eyes out for a playground for the kids and some afternoon tea. We finally found one at Legerwood where the kids let off some steam before we noticed a very interesting sight just down the road. Legerwood has nine big tree stumps carved into remembrance pieces for seven soldiers who fought and died from the area in World War I. The nine trees were originally planted in 1918 but in 2001 they were deemed unsafe and were required to be cut down. The towns folk were distraught that their Memorial Avenue would be destroyed so they hired Eddie Freeman to chainsaw each stump into a likeness of the men for which each tree was planted. After our park and memorial visit it was a long windy drive back to the van. That night we had a huge storm that continued all morning, which meant we had fun packing up the awning and hooking up the van in the pouring rain. The kids got to hide out in the van till the last minute before running to the car where the adults had to make a change of shorts before we could get in. Thankfully our rain jackets kept our heads and top halves dry even when we had water running down our arms when folding up the awning. 

Bay of Fires on our first afternoon
Picking our way through the thousands of blue bottles
Kai dune surfing
St Columba Waterfall
Legerwood Anzac Tree
Chainsaw sculpt tree stumps
This guy worked at the railway station before enlisting
Once we were all loaded in the car and dry we headed south back through St Helens to St Mary's and onto Elephant Pass Pancake Barn for lunch. Apparently these pancakes are on the ‘Top things to do in Tassie’ list and they certainly didn't let us down. While the parents tasted some beautiful savory pancakes the kids stuck to something they knew, lemon and sugar but got a bonus as it came with a scoop of ice cream. Tig couldn't resist the temptation of a sweet pancake for dessert and ordered a rocky road pancake, which Thea helped him finish. It was yummy. 

Ella polishing off her pancake
Kai - so like his father and sister Ella
Next up we will tell you about our trip through Launceston, Devonport and back to the mainland.

Tig and Thea

Friday, December 23, 2011

From an Island to an Island to an Island & as far south as roads go

Hobart remained cold but we were determined to take a drive up Mt Wellington so with warm cloths in hand we headed through Hobart and up to the summit where we were greeted by our second Tasmanian summer snow storm and plenty of snow on the ground for throwing snow balls and making snowmen which Tig made on the car much to the amusement of those coming up Mt Wellington as we went down.
Ella at Mt Wellington
It was so cold that Kai had Thea's scarf around his face 
Ice straight off the hand rails
Appartently she had never made a snowman and wanted to help
Driving back into Hobart city with snowman sort of attached
From Hobart we journeyed as far south roads will take us, all the way down to Cockle Creek in South West National Park. Cockle Creek was recommended by Nate, the wood fired pizza restaurant owner at Barilla Caravan Park where we stayed in Hobart, it is also where the South Coast walking track starts. We found a magic little camping spot on the side of the track in the National Park. There was just enough space for our van to fit in next to the open grassy camping area with the beach just 5 metres through the scrub. 
Peaceful Cockle Creek
Our view of the bay with little blue shack
The weather rolls in again
It was a very relaxing 3 days here (even if there was party nearby one night) and the bikes got some well-needed use. 

After a lazy start (except for Tig who went for an early ride) we wandered (Maddi, Ella and Tig on bikes and Kai and Thea on foot) along the road and around the bay to a Point where there is an impressive whale sculpture. Completely unprepared for a bush walk we kind of wandered further down the beach and were half way to Fishers Point (a 4km return walk) before we all realised we had nothing to eat and it was nearly lunch time. 

The Whale Sculpture
Another stunning scene
Father and son wander the beach
The afternoon was generally relaxed which gave us time to catch up on our blog which Thea posted from the roof of the caravan as reception was very poor. In the late afternoon the whole family took to the beach for a bit of exercise. About 200 metres down the beach where some privately owned beach shacks within the National Park. The afternoon’s exercise was to run down the beach and back 10 times to the little blue shack (for the adults). The kids loved it especially as each had a designated turn around spot but soon lost interest leaving Mum and Dad to finish off their 10 laps. Not bad effort all round and everyone felt the pain in our legs the next day.

Thea blog posting from the caravan roof
Cockle Creek is the ‘End of the Road’; the last town South of any note is Southport, which makes for an interesting drive around the few streets consisting of holiday beach shacks. These range from one bedroom fibros by the water edge to multi-million dollar ‘shacks’ up the hill. 
Between Southport and Cockle Creek is Ida Bay once a thriving town but now a couple of houses, café and the Ida Bay Railway. We took the train on the 14km return journey through the bush land and along the waters edge to where they used to load the lime quarried from the nearby hills. It was a huge tourist attraction, not, with just 8 passengers, us making up 5 of them, but pleasant all the same.
Ida Bay Railway
We decided to take over the rear carriage
Our tour guide Lance (centre) at the Grave Yard
Maddi and Ella taking in the sights
The Ida Bay Rail Train
After three lovely days at Cockle Creek we packed up and retraced our steps to Huonville before turning east to Kettering to board the ferry across D’Entrecasteaux Channel to Bruny Island.

Loaded on the ferry to Bruny Island

Kids run on the empty top deck
Bruny Island is only a 45 minute drive from Hobart to the ferry and is divided into a north and south island connected only by a narrow stretch of land. The north island consists mainly of open farming land, where the south is dominated by South Bruny Range and is mainly National Park and State Forest. The main tourist attractions are all on the southern island. We stayed in the one and only caravan park on the island which is at Adventure Bay on the southern island. There was another caravan park at Adventure Bay up until 6 months ago but it closed down as the owners retired. A number of houses are for sale on Bruny Island including the caravan park we stayed in. They are asking $1.89 million for it and it has its own secure water source apparently. This water must be so special as we where charged $1 for a 5 minute shower. We expected Bruny to be very touristy and well set up but after looking around ourselves and talking to the locals it appears to be a very sleepy place with tourism only on the rise in the last 3-5 years. They still have a long way to go but every local seems to be offering accommodation.

We decided to spend our first night on the island seeing some of the cute little penguins that reside on the island. The neck that connects the two islands is home to hundreds of fairy penguins and we went to the lookout/hide just before dark to see them. We were told to get there about 8.30pm but with the sun up so late it wasn’t until almost 9.30pm before the first penguins came up the beach in a group. They looked like a moving smudge on the sand and unfortunately not all three kids saw this the first time. Two penguin chicks had been spotted in a burrow near the boardwalk and the kids had been admiring them further up the slope when the first group arrived. We where thankful for a small school group (only 5 boys and 2 teachers) who had come prepared with torches with red cellophane over the lights so we could observe these creatures. We saw plenty of penguins march up the beach in groups and then weave through the undergrowth searching for their burrow. It was a fantastic experience and the kids loved it. As we drove back to our caravan we found a few penguins and a few other birds on the road and managed to encourage them back into the scrub. We played spotlight of the wildlife on our drive back, which consisted mainly of brush tail possums, rabbits, a spotted Quoll and one white kangaroo. The kids had all fallen asleep by the time we made it back to the van as it was about 11pm.

The next morning we had a sleep in and then proceeded to catch up on the washing while the kids played on the play equipment at the caravan park. Tig noticed some bike riders ride pass the caravan park looking very official and obviously in an event. After some internet research he discovered that the Swisse Mark Webber Tasmania Challenge was holding its Day 3 events on the island. So after a look at the course and the event we decided to head off to the Lighthouse and Jetty beach as we had planned to do but with the added bonus of maybe seeing some of the competitors.

As we have a 4wd we decided to take the direct approach to getting to the southern tip of the island by going up and over the back of Adventure Bay through the state forest. We immediately passed an official car coming down the one land dirt track who told us that about 10km up the track was a number of support trucks for the event and we should take care. We never saw the trucks or any competitors there as we forked off onto another track but we did catch up with them back on a main road further down. From a distance it appeared to be organized chaos as support vehicles collected bikes from one location and drove them quickly round to another checkpoint while the competitors in teams of two kayaked or ran there. Our first stop was Jetty Beach, which is a National Parks campsite. At this point the competitors came in on their mountain bikes and took to the water in kayaks. Most of the roads around Bruny Island are gravel/dirt and often single lane so it was a challenge passing support vehicles, competitors and other tourists. After watching a few of the competitors head out on their kayak leg we decided to go to the Lighthouse. On arrival we saw two competitors running back down the hill to their bikes and ride onto Jetty Beach. The views from the lighthouse was exceptional with stunning cliffs and rocky outcrops. Unfortunately there weren’t many walks suitable for our young family and the weathered turned so we only completed one short walk to Sheepwash Bay.

Competitor kayaks at Jetty Beach
Our second full day we decided to visit the non-natural tourist attractions like the Berry Farm, Fudge Factory and Hothouse Café. The kids big and small enjoyed picking our own strawberries and we had to control ourselves and not go overboard. With 1.5kg of strawberries in our possession one would think they would last a while. They were however all gone within 24 hours and they were so yummy. Next stop was the Fudge Factory where we sampled the fudge on offer and maybe, just maybe, picked up a few gifts. The adults saw this as an opportunity to do some Christmas shopping for our kids and therefor sent them outside to eat their sandwiches on the tailgate of the car. As you can imagine Maddi and Ella thought it would be fun to try and get a sneek peek at what mum and dad might be buying for them and kept reappearing beside us with a giggle. Kai was just stuck on the tailgate being so small and was more interested in food now to bother with us. I am pleased to say our mission was successful and they have no idea what we got for them. They even scored a free chocolate frog each from the owner as she thought they were well-behaved children. If only she knew that her facial expressions and body language at the beginning of our visit to the shop had given Thea the impression that she wasn’t coping with them. They obviously won her over with their cute if not a little annoying antics.

Strawberry picking and tasting
Yummy!
Ella and our 1.5kg

Ella doing some farm work
Since our first maze on the trip back in the South West Corner with Grant, Jenny and Kee Chan we have been on the look out for others. We thought it would be a good tourist attraction on Bruny and where delighted to see a photograph of one at the Hothouse Café on the back of the school fundraiser 2012 calendar. We decided to investigate, as we hadn’t seen any advertising for a maze on the island. We arrived at the Hothouse Café, which is appropriately named as it is housed inside a white plastic covered semicircle green house you would find in a market garden. It makes sense as Tassie weather is often cold but on our particular day was quite warm so we opted to sit outside under the shade cloth gazebo. We enquired about the maze but were informed it was removed 3 years ago as it was too much work for the new owners and the space converted into the carpark. We therefor sampled the scones on offer with coffee and hot chocolates and admired the view instead.

Hothouse Cafe for Coffee and Scones
The view
Thea couldn't resist trimming Kai's hair
Before departing the island we headed to the northern island for a look around. Driving the narrow roads we saw Iron Pot Lighthouse that the Sydney to Hobart Yachts pass on their entry into Hobart Harbour. We stopped at Dennes Point (the most northerly point) for a coffee from the café/restaurant and a look in the gallery, which are both housed along with small grocery store in a community built building. The view was pretty good from the wide deck and the kids where enjoying the small play equipment, which consisted simply of a swing set. We could have sat there for hours but alas the main land, as the locals call it was waiting. Once again the weather closed in and we had a quick bit to eat in the caravan while waiting for the ferry. For the short ferry ride back we were entertained along with a few family groups of cyclists and by the family sticker on the back of a Toyota HiAce Commuter van. It had the longest family stick figure sticker we had ever seen. All twenty family members plus five dogs, two cats, one bird, one chicken and a rabbit squeezed onto the back window. The van looked modified and we worked out could sit 16 people.

Ready to load again back for mainland Tassie 
Longest family sticker ever
Once off the ferry we headed north back thought Hobart and stopped for the night at Sorell’s RV stop. The kids had a quick opportunity to ride scooter down the road to the council chambers to pay our nominal fee before heading to the skate park next door while Thea cooked dinner.

Next we will update you on our West Coast adventures and why Tig has become a skilled fish cleaner. 

Till then…
Tig and Thea